Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Science and the evolution of food pyramids?

It is interesting to examine the development and changes made to the USDA Food Pyramid over the last 20 years.  The first food pyramid today has been criticized as non-scientific and overly dependent on industrial interests.  While this pyramid is not the greatest, it still isn't bad, and most Americans diets would greatly improve by eating according to it. 
The first USDA Food Pyramid introduced in 1992.  This pyramid has been criticized as today as no longer having a scientific basis and being overly influenced by industrial interests.
Due to changes found in dietary research the USDA introduced the New Food Pyramid in 2005.  The new pyramid is significantly better than the old but still is criticized as being influenced by industrial interests in some regards as opposed to scientific knowledge. 

The new food pyramid has fewer grains and specifies whole grains, significantly increases plant oils (thus distinguishing between saturated and unsaturated fats), decreases meats and dairy, increases fruits and vegetables,  increases/adds legumes, increases/adds nuts and seeds, and so on.  There are a lot of huge and important changes in this food pyramid.  Criticism of this pyramid has come in regards to there being still too many servings of meat and dairy products (Yes the critics have a strong scientific basis).  Based on the scientific research though this is a greatly improved food pyramid despite criticism and again Americans would do very well to eat according to this pyramid.  In my opinion, and their is significant research to support this, a myriad of health problems in the USA would largely disappear if most Americans ate according to the pyramid.  Unfortunately, most Americans eat with this pyramid upside down by eating large amounts of meats and dairy products and very few fruits, veggies, and whole grains.

In my opinion there are probably several possible scientific based food pyramids that are very healthy.  And obviously there are many thousands that are not healthy and not scientifically based.  In some of my readings and research I came across several interesting ones which I believe are scientifically shown to at least be as healthy as the original 1992 Food Pyramid. 

Dr. Weil's Anti-inflamitory food pyramid.  As far as I can tell this is a very scientific based healthy food pyramid.
Okinawa Diet Food Pyramid.  Based on research of the diet of the Okinawa people who are well known to have some of the longest lifespans in the world. 
Dr. Weil's and the Okinawa pyramids are both scientifically based and bare a lot of resemblances to the USDA New Food Pyramid.  I also found all kinds of other food pyramids such as the Bunny Food Pyramid which I don't suggest for people but only for bunnies (As it was designed for).  Interestingly though there are some similarities in the bunny pyramid to the people pyramids above.

The Bunny Food Pyramid.  Suggested for bunnies not people.  I don't know any person who can eat or wants to eat grass or alfalfa. 
As far as biology goes, our diet is about as practical as it gets.  We all have to eat and our health is largely determined by our diet.  We should all seriously consider what we eat.  Well, unless you are this guy... Then your diet doesn't matter at all...

Ok, you're right, I am convinced this is a hoax.  Apparently not everything on the internet is true...

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Stinging nettles are actually useful?!?!


Growing up in the Midwest I learned very quickly in my camping, fishing, and hiking excisions what stinging nettles where and avoided them as much as possible.  I found them much easier to identify and avoid then poison ivy which I managed to get every summer for four years in my childhood.  After those four years I learned my lesson and haven't had is since.  But for all the effort I and others put into avoiding stinging nettles I never guessed some people would actually find them useful.  In-fact, some people find them one of the most useful plants available.  Weird but true.

In looking into this I came across the book "101 Uses for Stinging Nettles" by Piers Warren.  The book is pretty interesting.  Some of the more interesting uses in the book are: fertilizer, insecticides, tea, all kinds of food uses, fiber for rope and clothing, and numerous medical uses.  A lot of these 101 uses are folk lore but a lot are also based on actual uses that have been around for centuries.  The usefulness of this plant appears to me to be pretty amazing.  The book prompted me to purchase nettle seeds which I will be planting in my garden this spring so I can test out a lot of these different uses.  So in coming months, as the nettles grow, I will post the results for some of these nettle uses.  I'll test them out to see if its true.

Here is an article on nettles I came across a while back.  Apparently nettle ferments and new publications on nettles are somehow illegal in France (according to this article).  Weird.

Here is another article on nettle ferments:  Nettles to the rescue


Stinging nettle plant (Urtica dioica)

Stinging nettles typically grow in areas of very wet soil and form dense thickets like this.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Bare root fruit trees

Bare root apple tree.  Note the fine roots.  In general, bare root fruit trees with an abundance of fine roots will do much better then trees with a few large roots or very few roots at all.  Also note the white band just above the roots in the center of the picture.  This white band is where the apple scion (stem) is grafted onto a root stock system.  The roots should be planted to a depth just below this white band.

Several years ago I started planting a variety of bare root fruit trees and vines.  A bare root tree is simply that, when purchased the tree doesn't come in a pot of soil but rather comes with the roots bare and wrapped up in sawdust or something else that will keep the roots moist.  At first I was a little scared that everything I planted would die.  However, I have now planted many peach, apple, plum, grape, blackberry, and persimmon trees successfully, not one of which have died.   I have found bare root trees easier to handle than potted plants, you just have to be a little more delicate with their root systems.  Fruit trees are probably the easiest and cheapest way to garden.  For several hundred dollars you can plant a relatively large orchard and never have to put any money into it again.  The hardest work is also up-front with planting these trees.  But once the trees are planted the hardest work left is harvesting and pruning.  Fruit trees are a simple way to add value and productivity to your property.  Here are some basic guidelines to growing your bare root trees.

Chilling hours: It is important that you select trees that have fewer chill hours then your local climate.  Chilling hours are the number of hours a location has with temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees.  These hours are needed in order for a fruit tree to bud, flower, and produce fruit.  In Phoenix we have less then 400 chilling hours each winter so we must select trees that have 400 or fewer chilling hour requirements.  It also may be helpful to look at USDA plant growing zone information when selecting trees.   If  you select trees with too many chilling hours you may get either no fruit or inconsistent fruit.

Root stock:  There are many types of root stocks available for all the different types of fruit trees.  These stocks have a variety of different effects on the growth of trees or the soils they are adapted to.  Dwarfing stocks are often popular but I have found them difficult to deal with in desert conditions.  For this reason, I favor seedling or semi-dwarfing root stocks, they seem to deal with drought conditions far better then dwarf stocks. 

Site selection:  Sites generally needs at least six hours of direct sunlight a day.  Also, select a site were it will be easy to water if needed.

Planting: Dig a hole slightly larger then root ball and plant to just below graft point or where tree was originally planted.

Pruning: After planting prune tree to 18 to 24 inches.  This allows for more roots to feed less stem and leaf area which is very important for aiding establishment of the tree.  This is especially true in desert areas.  After the first year prune to the desired shape in late summer and while the tree is dormant in the winter.  You can prune your trees to fit the space they are planted in.

Here are some other resources I have found on bare root fruit trees: